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Tuesday, 15 July 2008
Qipao - a statement of Oriental beauty
SLINKY, elegant, chic (and often practical), the classic qipao was a symbol of trendy Shanghai. The old-fashioned formless dress was nipped, tucked and slit for liberated women, writes Fei Lai.
SLINKY, elegant, chic (and often practical), the classic qipao was a symbol of trendy Shanghai. The old-fashioned formless dress was nipped, tucked and slit for liberated women, writes Fei Lai.
Once upon a time the qipao raised eyebrows - that was in the early 20th century when the simple form-fitting dress became the fashion for modern women in Shanghai.
The rest is history. Now the classic lady's dress is again enjoying a renaissance, especially as evening wear and in Shanghai where the standard qipao was "born."
Today qipao is a symbol of Oriental femininity. It usually has a high neck, bare shoulders, side slits and a snug fit. Some variations are quite daring, some more modest. It can be flashy or subdued, the materials brocade or cotton. Some have sleeves, some are floor-length, some touch the knees.
In any case, to wear qipao with style, one should have a nice figure. It's a rather restricting garment.
The original qipao, however, was a modest and loose garment introduced by the Manchus and popular among smart ladies in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).
The word qipao (literally "banner people quilt") comes from the word qi referring to the "banner" people, who were mostly Manchu. Pao means quilt. It referred to a long, straight gown, distinct from Hanfu, traditional Han Chinese clothing.
In the early 20th century, however, qipao was transformed, taken in and tailored into a garment of Chinese women's identity. In the 1920s and 1930s, it became a vogue throughout the country.
It was especially popular in trendsetting Shanghai, known for the liberation of Chinese women and for very chic women, among the first to wear qipao.
The development of the modern qipao coincided with the New Culture Movement between 1917 and 1923. Women, too, were waking up, seeking shorter hemlines and pursuing fashion.
"In the Qing Dynasty, qipao was actually cheongsam that fitted loosely and reached the foot," says Chu Hongsheng, a senior consultant at Shanghai Hanyi Garments Co Ltd. Now 90 years old, Chu has been stitching qipao for more than 70 years. "There was broad lace trim at the collar, sleeves and hem. They were usually made of silk and embroidered."
In the 1920s, reflecting the Western "roaring 20s" tastes, the dress got shorter and more fitted. New styles showed a woman's curves - and her legs, thanks to slits. There was more practical, casual streetwear as well.
The qipao was versatile. It was basic, women wore it every day and wore special qipao for evening wear.
Its heyday was the 1930s. Textile printing and dying machines were introduced. Printed patterns appeared. Qipao was made in cotton, flax, silk and satin. On the streets, cotton stripes and plaid in plain colors were popular among female students and intellectuals. It could be worn on casual or formal occasions.
"Whether plump or slim, an ordinary girl or a star, a woman in a qipao looked modern and elegant. The dress seldom let anyone down," says Chu.
"Various styles existed during this period - long or short, with low necks, high necks or no collars at all," she says.
Special qipao were embroidered with peony, lotus, chrysanthemum, and dragon and phoenix patterns.
The peony symbolizes richness and prosperity, and the lotus represents beauty and purity.
"The Chinese dragon and phoenix are often applied in a bride's qipao for a happy marriage," says Chu. "It signifies success, prosperity and a strong relationship."
A qipao is not just a dress, it's more than a single garment. To wear a qipao, one should consider the total effect: hairstyle, jewelry, stockings and shoes. All should complement the gown.
"The dress and accessories should be presented as a unit. Besides earrings, necklaces, brooches and handbags, shawls play an important role in mix-and-match," says Xu Yulin, a Tsinghua University graduate who founded her own qipao store on Changle Road in 2002. "Back in the 1930s, curled hair was the most popular hairstyle with qipao dress."
Designed to elegantly show off the bust, waist and hips, qipao also displayed the legs to advantage.
Many film stars wore distinctive qipaos in their works, posters and calendars. Ruan Lingyu, one of the biggest stars of the 1930s who committed suicide at the age of 24, is widely remembered for her classic images in qipao.
Dressed in different qipaos, Ruan shifted from student to writer, singer to dancer, heroine to villain, and victim to modern woman.
Reaching its "golden times" in the 1930s and 1940s, qipao was seen as decadent fashion during the "cultural revolution" (1966-76). It was not until the 1980s that qipao re-emerged. Influenced by Western fashion, designers and tailors raised the hem, even to above the knee.
The modern qipao features great diversity in fabric and design.
"In old Shanghai, qipao was a necessity to women's daily life. Nowadays, it has become a mark of China and an emblem of Oriental beauty," Xu says. "Due to its elegance and classical looks, qipao has become a source of inspiration for the world's fashion designers. It is no longer a garment particular to Chinese women, but to women the world over."
2 comments:
Qipao - a statement of Oriental beauty
Fei Lai
SLINKY, elegant, chic (and often practical), the classic qipao was a symbol of trendy Shanghai. The old-fashioned formless dress was nipped, tucked and slit for liberated women, writes Fei Lai.
Once upon a time the qipao raised eyebrows - that was in the early 20th century when the simple form-fitting dress became the fashion for modern women in Shanghai.
The rest is history. Now the classic lady's dress is again enjoying a renaissance, especially as evening wear and in Shanghai where the standard qipao was "born."
Today qipao is a symbol of Oriental femininity. It usually has a high neck, bare shoulders, side slits and a snug fit. Some variations are quite daring, some more modest. It can be flashy or subdued, the materials brocade or cotton. Some have sleeves, some are floor-length, some touch the knees.
In any case, to wear qipao with style, one should have a nice figure. It's a rather restricting garment.
The original qipao, however, was a modest and loose garment introduced by the Manchus and popular among smart ladies in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).
The word qipao (literally "banner people quilt") comes from the word qi referring to the "banner" people, who were mostly Manchu. Pao means quilt. It referred to a long, straight gown, distinct from Hanfu, traditional Han Chinese clothing.
In the early 20th century, however, qipao was transformed, taken in and tailored into a garment of Chinese women's identity. In the 1920s and 1930s, it became a vogue throughout the country.
It was especially popular in trendsetting Shanghai, known for the liberation of Chinese women and for very chic women, among the first to wear qipao.
The development of the modern qipao coincided with the New Culture Movement between 1917 and 1923. Women, too, were waking up, seeking shorter hemlines and pursuing fashion.
"In the Qing Dynasty, qipao was actually cheongsam that fitted loosely and reached the foot," says Chu Hongsheng, a senior consultant at Shanghai Hanyi Garments Co Ltd. Now 90 years old, Chu has been stitching qipao for more than 70 years. "There was broad lace trim at the collar, sleeves and hem. They were usually made of silk and embroidered."
In the 1920s, reflecting the Western "roaring 20s" tastes, the dress got shorter and more fitted. New styles showed a woman's curves - and her legs, thanks to slits. There was more practical, casual streetwear as well.
The qipao was versatile. It was basic, women wore it every day and wore special qipao for evening wear.
Its heyday was the 1930s. Textile printing and dying machines were introduced. Printed patterns appeared. Qipao was made in cotton, flax, silk and satin. On the streets, cotton stripes and plaid in plain colors were popular among female students and intellectuals. It could be worn on casual or formal occasions.
"Whether plump or slim, an ordinary girl or a star, a woman in a qipao looked modern and elegant. The dress seldom let anyone down," says Chu.
"Various styles existed during this period - long or short, with low necks, high necks or no collars at all," she says.
Special qipao were embroidered with peony, lotus, chrysanthemum, and dragon and phoenix patterns.
The peony symbolizes richness and prosperity, and the lotus represents beauty and purity.
"The Chinese dragon and phoenix are often applied in a bride's qipao for a happy marriage," says Chu. "It signifies success, prosperity and a strong relationship."
A qipao is not just a dress, it's more than a single garment. To wear a qipao, one should consider the total effect: hairstyle, jewelry, stockings and shoes. All should complement the gown.
"The dress and accessories should be presented as a unit. Besides earrings, necklaces, brooches and handbags, shawls play an important role in mix-and-match," says Xu Yulin, a Tsinghua University graduate who founded her own qipao store on Changle Road in 2002. "Back in the 1930s, curled hair was the most popular hairstyle with qipao dress."
Designed to elegantly show off the bust, waist and hips, qipao also displayed the legs to advantage.
Many film stars wore distinctive qipaos in their works, posters and calendars. Ruan Lingyu, one of the biggest stars of the 1930s who committed suicide at the age of 24, is widely remembered for her classic images in qipao.
Dressed in different qipaos, Ruan shifted from student to writer, singer to dancer, heroine to villain, and victim to modern woman.
Reaching its "golden times" in the 1930s and 1940s, qipao was seen as decadent fashion during the "cultural revolution" (1966-76). It was not until the 1980s that qipao re-emerged. Influenced by Western fashion, designers and tailors raised the hem, even to above the knee.
The modern qipao features great diversity in fabric and design.
"In old Shanghai, qipao was a necessity to women's daily life. Nowadays, it has become a mark of China and an emblem of Oriental beauty," Xu says. "Due to its elegance and classical looks, qipao has become a source of inspiration for the world's fashion designers. It is no longer a garment particular to Chinese women, but to women the world over."
You'll Never Know - by Michael Buble
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